Well there's something appears to be wrong because those status outputs are backwards.

When your arm switch is in the ARMED position you should see the ARMSWITCH arming disable flag present, but according to your description and the status output you say the second one has the ARM switch in the ARMED position, but that second status output isn't showing the ARMSWITCH arming disable flag, so Betaflight doesn't think the switch is in the ARMED position, but it does in the first status output which you say is when the switch in the DISARMED position.

Maybe you have managed to accidentally reverse the arm switch configuration on your transmitter so what you think is the DISAMED position is actually the ARMED position, and vice versa.

Go to the Modes tab in Betaflight Configurator and check to see where the little blip marker moves to for the ARM mode when you move the switch to what you believe is the ARMED position. The blip should end up within the yellow spanned area of the slider bars when you do that, and it should move out of that yellow spanned area when you move the arm switch to the DISARMED position.

(29-Apr-2024, 12:36 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Well there's something appears to be wrong because those status outputs are backwards.

When your arm switch is in the ARMED position you should see the ARMSWITCH arming disable flag present, but according to your description and the status output you say the second one has the ARM switch in the ARMED position, but that second status output isn't showing the ARMSWITCH arming disable flag, so Betaflight doesn't think the switch is in the ARMED position, but it does in the first status output which you say is when the switch in the DISARMED position.

Maybe you have managed to accidentally reverse the arm switch configuration on your transmitter so what you think is the DISAMED position is actually the ARMED position, and vice versa.

Go to the Modes tab in Betaflight Configurator and check to see where the little blip marker moves to for the ARM mode when you move the switch to what you believe is the ARMED position. The blip should end up within the yellow spanned area of the slider bars when you do that, and it should move out of that yellow spanned area when you move the arm switch to the DISARMED po

Yes when I originally crashed and was messing with the modes I switched the armed mode on accident. Still no luck the motors refuse to spin when arming the drone. I forgot to mention the blue light which says "status" and the red light that says "3.3V" (Which are located on the FC) would light up before the crash. Now after the crash only the orange light that says "VBAT" turns on when I hook up the Battery. When the drone is hooked up to my computer the red light is solid and the blue light flickers like it should normally do. 


Disarmed - 

# Status
MCU F722 Clock=216MHz, Vref=3.28V, Core temp=46degC
Stack size: 2048, Stack address: 0x20010000
Configuration: CONFIGURED, size: 3644, max available: 16384
Devices detected: SPI:1, I2C:1
Gyros detected: gyro 1 locked dma
GYRO=ICM42688P, ACC=ICM42688P, BARO=DPS310
OSD: MAX7456 (30 x 13)
BUILD KEY: 128aa7787d0e5deacbe047998ecf198d (4.4.3)
System Uptime: 199 seconds, Current Time: 2024-04-28T23:44:39.105+00:00
CPU:5%, cycle time: 124, GYRO rate: 8064, RX rate: 248, System rate: 9
Voltage: 0 * 0.01V (0S battery - NOT PRESENT)
I2C Errors: 0
FLASH: JEDEC ID=0x00ef4019 32M
Arming disable flags: CLI MSP

Armed - 

# Status
MCU F722 Clock=216MHz, Vref=3.28V, Core temp=46degC
Stack size: 2048, Stack address: 0x20010000
Configuration: CONFIGURED, size: 3644, max available: 16384
Devices detected: SPI:1, I2C:1
Gyros detected: gyro 1 locked dma
GYRO=ICM42688P, ACC=ICM42688P, BARO=DPS310
OSD: MAX7456 (30 x 13)
BUILD KEY: 128aa7787d0e5deacbe047998ecf198d (4.4.3)
System Uptime: 15 seconds, Current Time: 2024-04-28T23:45:09.332+00:00
CPU:5%, cycle time: 124, GYRO rate: 8064, RX rate: 255, System rate: 9
Voltage: 0 * 0.01V (0S battery - NOT PRESENT)
I2C Errors: 0
FLASH: JEDEC ID=0x00ef4019 32M
Arming disable flags: CLI MSP ARMSWITCH

The blue "STATUS" LED will light up when the MCU has booted up and is active. The green 5V LED will light up when the 5V circuit is active, and the red 3.3V LED will light up when the 3.3V circuit is active (which is the circuit also used to power the MCU). So it appears that when a LiPo is connected to the quad that the FC isn't getting its required 5V supply, which in turn would then get further reduced to 3.3V to power the MCU.

I have a suspicion that the 5V regulator on your FC may have fried itself. The reason that things appear to work when you plug in a USB cable is because the 5V supply is then provided directly to the FC from the USB cable, thus bypassing the 5V regulator that the LiPo voltage runs through when you have just a LiPo connected. Below is a crude line drawing which shows how the FC gets its 5V supply from either the LiPo or the USB cable.



Try doing the following:

1. Remove the props (it is important that you do this to avoid any nasty accidents).
   
2. Plug in a USB Cable.
   
3. Plug in a LiPo.
   
4. Connect Betaflight Configurator to the FC.
   
5. Go to the Motors tab and turn on the little switch next to "I understand the risks".
   
6. Switch on your transmitter with the ARM swith in the DISARMED position.
   
7. Make sure your throttle is in the bottommost position and then flip the ARM switch to the ARMED position.
   

If the motors arm themselves when doing the above it confirms that the 5V regulator on your FC is fried.

(29-Apr-2024, 01:14 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The blue "STATUS" LED will light up when the MCU has booted up and is active. The green 5V LED will light up when the 5V circuit is active, and the red 3.3V LED will light up when the 3.3V circuit is active (which is the circuit also used to power the MCU). So it appears that when a LiPo is connected to the quad that the FC isn't getting its required 5V supply, which in turn then gets further reduced to 3.3V to power the MCU.

I have a suspicion that the 5V regulator on your FC may have fried itself. The reason that things appear to work when you plug in a USB cable is because the 5V supply is then provided directly to the FC from the USB cable, thus bypassing the 5V regulator that the LiPo voltage runs through when you have just a LiPo connected. Below is a crude line drawing which shows how the FC gets its 5V supply from either the LiPo or the USB cable.



Try doing the following:

1. Remove the props (it is important that you do this to avoid any nasty accidents).
   
2. Plug in a USB Cable.
   
3. Plug in a LiPo.
   
4. Connect Betaflight Configurator to the FC.
   
5. Go to the Motors tab and turn on the little switch next to "I understand the risks".
   
6. Switch on your transmitter with the ARM swith in the DISARMED position.
   
7. Make sure your throttle is in the bottommost position and then flip the ARM switch to the ARMED position.
   

If the motors arm themselves when doing the above it confirms that the 5V regulator on your FC is fried.

Looks like we found the issue, the motors do spin when arming the switch on the controller. Do you suggest replacing the FC or can I replace the 5V regulator itself? I really appreciate the quick responses and being patient with me.

(29-Apr-2024, 01:46 AM)AirbusFPV Wrote: Looks like we found the issue, the motors do spin when arming the switch on the controller. Do you suggest replacing the FC or can I replace the 5V regulator itself? I really appreciate the quick responses and being patient with me.

Normally we would have been able to identify the root cause of your issue much quicker, but the fact that your video in post #6 showed the last two ESC startup tones playing, albeit at a different speed / pitch than expected, it led us on a bit of a wild goose chase because those last two tones will only usually play if the FC is powered up and working, but looking back at your video it is clear to see that only the orange "BAT" LED is lit up which means that the 5V regulator was already fried. Maybe those last two abnormal sounding startup tones actually mean something on the Bluejay firmware (i.e. an error code of some sort) but I've never heard the last two ESC startup tones sound like that and there doesn't appear to be anything in the Bluejay documentation to help try and decipher what they might mean.

If you are skilled with a soldering iron and you are able to locate the failed 5V regulator chip on the FC, and you are able to locate a suitable replacement then you can try replacing it. The failed 5V regulator will be one of the chips on the underside of the board that is circled in yellow on the image below. One will be the 5V BEC and the other will be the 9V BEC. The chip circled in green will be the 3.3V regulator.



Alternatively you could install an external 5V BEC and wire it to one of the 5V pads to inject 5V into the board from that external BEC. If you do that, make sure it is capable of outputting at least 2.5A which is the same spec as the onboard 5V BEC.

If either of the above is too much effort or is beyond your skillset then you will just have to buy a new FC.