It is in B for boogy for sure!...

I think stock settings are .42 layer width @ .1 layer height using a .4 nozzle, you can prolly zoom dat!

see: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/default-lin...42/20400/6

Bullwinkle’s next trick would be to try laying down 1.2 layer width @ .28 layer height using a .6 nozzle!?!

For sure - bed adhesives, drying facilities, hardened nozzles, larger/smaller nozzles, etc.  All on my list.  I saw someone using blue masking tape on the bed, somewhere ...

.4 Nozzle - yes. .2 layer height default. Layer width (?)

TBH - I (we) are still in the excited phase after getting our first 3D printer.  Even my wife is interested in the different types of filament (mostly color based interest).  We're still seeing what it can do 'out of the box' with my minimal knowledge of things  However, in the meantime I'm keeping all filament in gallon-size zip bags with extra 'Do Not Eat' desiccant bags inside each one.

I believe the attached PIC shows the default printer speeds.  At anytime you can touch the display on the printer and change speeds from super slow to Ludacris.  I've left it at standard so far.

The print bed is standard textured, but they have like 3 or 4 other ones, that you must use adhesive with, if I remember correctly.  I think with the standard textured you can get away without adhesive, maybe, depending on bed temperature ... (I think).

Learning Bambu Suite is like learning BetaFlight - OpenSource Wiki is your friend, as well as finding forums of experts. Haven't started looking for the Joshua Bardwell of 3D printers yet, but that's probably gonna happen soon



Oh wow - there's a Bambu forum !!! Thanks !!!! Great links Skywanderer !

I need to figure out how to find and compare the two PETG filament profiles, so I can hopefully understand why one worked and the other didn't.

Oh, so far, I'm only using Inland TPU and PETG filaments, cuz that's what MicroCenter carries and I can shop there in person. They've got an entire aisle dedicated to PLA, so yeah, that must be the most popular. I know there's way more waiting on-line ...

Dang. That's more or less 4x the speeds I've been printing at. That inspired me to try speeding up my printer. I was already printing tpu at the same speed as petg, so I suppose it stands to reason that I could print petg faster. I kicked off a print with a 200% speed multiplier and it didn't have any issues at all... There's just not enough time in the day to research all the fun hobbies. I'll try 3x at some point.

LOL Speaking of Joshua Bardwell and 3D printers ....



I just learned a few things about the Bambu slicer

JB should just learn a CAD program. That thing he made is something only a mother can love. Haha.

I don't know about you guys. But I love designing my own stuff. I really enjoying the prototyping aspect of 3D printing. Especially if there is nothing out there already.

True that but... there are use cases that might favor that approach. Just recently, there has arisen interest in a printed kwad that dates from 2017!?... but like many others in business, is not any more. From rcgroups:

from 2017: 90mm Pocket Quad's LightSpeed - Lightest 1104 2" - 43 grams/RunCam Nano/200mw
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre...Nano-200mw

Because they are not in business any more and there remains interest, someone on that thread made the stl file available if contacted.

For CAD programs, I was using designspark mechanical 5 (freeware), but they "upgraded" to v6 and deactivated v5. The same problem I've heard others complain about "free" software, it can vanish especially if cloud driven. For local drive use, think I've settled on Alibre Atom3D, lotsa tutes out now and a really good guy doing them: https://www.youtube.com/@AlibreLLC/videos

What do you and others use? curious...

I use Fusion 360. It is free for hobbyist.

Yes, Fusion is a big learning curve. But maybe I am just different, but I really enjoying learning it.

As mentioned, Rhino3D.
If you can prove student status you can get a full version for $195. Awesome deal. It’s been that price for 20 some years now. Or $995 to just buy outright. I started with the student version and was able to upgrade for less than half the cost of retail. They run special upgrade periods whenever they release a new major version, like right now. Proof that a CAD tool vendor can create a great product and update it for decades without annual extortion / subscription / maintenance payments from customers. If you’re a customer you get customer support, period.

I was never successful at learning a proper CAD package. They all have a huge learning curve and I had better things to do with my time than invest hours trying to learn how to use something that I wasn't using day in day out. I did originally start following some Fusion360 tutorials but I found that every time I went back to using it I had to go back through through previous tutorials again just to refresh my memory on how to do things, so it just ended up wasting so much time. So far I've been able to design everything I've needed to (including some fairly complex items) using TinkerCAD which most people seem to turn their noses up at and scoff at because they consider it "childs" software, but once you've learnt some techniques to work around a few of the pain points I can generally knock things up in it fairly easily, and I'm able to just go back to it without having to waste time relearning stuff before I can knock out a design. I also find TinkerCad fun to use where the other proper CAD programs just seemed to be a chore.

Bambu Slicer was copied (forked) from PrusaSlicer, so most of the features in that slicer were already implemented by Prusa before Bambu Lab forked it. Granted that Prusa also forked the original Slic3r software, but most of the cool new features you see in it today were added by the Prusa devs within the past 5 years.

Sweet!

For giggles I tried the Bambu TPU 95A preset (instead of the generic one) for the Inland TPU - Works even better!!!! Much cleaner parts

And a big bag of rechargeable desiccant just arrived

I wanted some beefy arm guards for my QAV-S Mini 3" quad, but couldn't find any. So, Rhino3D to the rescue !

I now have 2mm of protection on all sides (top, bottom and edges) of the arm ends

I might just add a half-sphere of TPU to the bottom as a skid bump ...

They slide on and are held in place with all kinds of friction. Motor screw heads don't compress any TPU material either, cuz that's usually nasty.

(01-Jan-2024, 12:39 AM)QuadFlyer68 Wrote: Sweet!

For giggles I tried the Bambu TPU 95A preset (instead of the generic one) for the Inland TPU - Works even better!!!! Much cleaner parts

And a big bag of rechargeable desiccant just arrived

I wanted some beefy arm guards for my QAV-S Mini 3" quad, but couldn't find any.  So, Rhino3D to the rescue !  

I now have 2mm of protection on all sides (top, bottom and edges) of the arm ends

I might just add a half-sphere of TPU to the bottom as a skid bump ...

They slide on and are held in place with all kinds of friction.  Motor screw heads don't compress any TPU material either, cuz that's usually nasty.

That looks pretty damn well made !
Nice trick , thatnks for this tip/reminder with the photo and ruler so you can scale it till it fits on the cad program scale raster. Then draw/build.
Most def going to try that on some parts i had in mind. My printer will finally arrive tomorrow yeehaaaa. (unfortunately 1 day after my hollidays so thats the big bummer, but there is always weekends ;-)

Yes the photo with ruler works great. Just have to get a pic with few shadows and minimal perspective distortion.

Great to hear you’re finally getting yours. Yeah, been there too when stuff comes after I’ve had some time off I try to order things a month earlier now

Yeah patience is not my virtuie hahaha.

Question. Bingewatching youtubes on 3d printing etc but stugeling with trying to understand when to use what infill percentage. Yeah i get it that the more infill the stronger. But for your standard small TPU or PETG drone or wing parts , what do you typicaly use ? So far i always had my parts printed by a 3d print shop so no idea what they used or what is common.
Do you just go for 100% or leave it at default for the profile (most filament profiles have it at around 15% but seems lowish).

So I'm still leaving things at default settings. I'll see how well these parts do, strength-wise. I don't mind slightly lighter parts, but not if they come apart during use.

I made some refinements Added a hemi-sphere skid bump, removed some material from the top side, rounded some edges.

Tried normal supports instead of trees. Seems easier to remove (?)



A little bit of elbow grease and twisting to get them on, but they're on snug

They look really nice. Time to consider getting a farm of mini bambus and selling feet online, I'll be happy to place an order
I was just looking at the banged up motor and chipped cf on my Crux35 arm, a beefy TPU bumper might have saved the motor. Cockatiel?